On Reading The Lord of the Rings for the Fifteenth Time; Part Three: The Return of the King and Appendices

The third volume of The Lord of the Rings, The Return of the King, is full of epic-scale heroic deeds: the passage of Aragorn, Legolas, Gimli, and the Dunedain through the paths of the dead; the ride of the Rohirrim to relieve the siege of Minas Tirith; the vanquishing of the dark captain of the Nazgul during the battle of the Pelennor Fields; the final march of the armies of the West to the Black Gate of Mordor; and, of course, Frodo and Sam’s trek through the wastelands of Mordor to cast the ring into the fiery chasm of Mount Doom. Numerous passages touch me deeply and move me to tears. Tolkien makes it starkly clear that strength of arms alone cannot defeat Sauron; the allies of the West must rely on courage, honor, friendship, loyalty, and self-sacrifice. In Frodo and Sam we come to realize that the smallest of people can become the greatest of heroes. Each of us must fulfill our destiny with sincerity and heroism.

Rereading the trilogy this time reminded me of why I was so drawn to the story when I was young. Back then it gave me an impression of noble intent and of the implacable contrast between good and evil. Having now lived much of my life, I realize that honorable virtues are often called for in the many decisions and deeds that impact each of our journeys. The Lord of the Rings is so popular because it reminds us of the need to claim our destinies amidst the ever-changing vagaries of existence.

This reading, then, brought me a lot of joy and a touch of nostalgia. And it caused me to feel great empathy with Frodo as he completes his quest and returns to the Shire. I set out on my own quest long ago. I journeyed into far countries and even raised a family overseas. It was all in the nature of a grand adventure. When I came back to the States, and eventually back to Seattle, it wasn’t the same to me. My homeland had changed somewhat, but even more I had changed. I’m not the same person I was when I left, and even though I have returned and am once again living in the city where I was born, I feel somewhat ill at ease and out of place. I feel like a stranger in a strange land. Once again I am reminded of what I wrote near the end of my memoir World Without Pain: “Perhaps the journey itself, the search, was the point of it all. But if it was then there was no end, no goal, no destination. One could not arrive; one could not rest, except intermittently. And home? I couldn’t go home again. Home was an abstraction from which one commenced a particular phase of the journey, not an absolute.” After being gone for so many decades and living so much life it’s hard for me to settle in and be comfortable.

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A few words should be said about the appendices at the end of The Return of the King. I’m sure that many people, when they come to the end of the primary narrative, ignore them. For several of my readings when I was young I was so disappointed when the tale came to a close that I read every word of the end matter. With this reading I have been a bit more selective, reading some of the history but passing by some of the lists of lineages and intricacies of the languages.

In my opinion, readers interested in the goings-on of Middle Earth should not ignore the appendices. Through them you get a glimpse of the background to the events in the trilogy, and you can also find out what happens to the heroes after the main story ends. Appendix A, “Annals of the Kings and Rulers,” offers tales of the Numenorean kings, of the realm of Gondor, of the Rohirrim, and of the Dwarves. It includes the touching story of Aragorn and Arwen, and tells of what happens to Arwen after Aragorn dies. Appendix B is called “The Tale of Years,” and it is a chronology of events in Middle Earth, but within the lists are hidden gems: brief accounts of deeds and adventures. In this appendix is the section “Later Events Concerning the Members of the Fellowship of the Ring.” Appendix C, “Family Trees,” is exactly what it says: family trees of some of the important lineages of the hobbits. In Appendix D, “Shire Calendar,” Tolkien explains the calendar system that the hobbits use in the book. Appendix E, “Writing and Spelling,” goes into the languages spoken in Middle Earth, especially the Westron or Common Speech. Tolkien describes the vowels, consonants, alphabet, stresses, and so on in intricate detail; I have known fans of the book to use the alphabets in this section to communicate with one another in a sort of pseudo-cryptic code. In Appendix F, “The Languages and Peoples of the Third Age,” Tolkien offers an overview of Elves, Men, Hobbits, Dwarves, Ents, and other races that inhabit Middle Earth.

Tolkien went to great effort to compile these details as he was writing The Lord of the Rings, and whether you skim them, study them, or ignore them, you can see the results of his research in the depth and details of the world he created for our amusement and edification.

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On Reading the Lord of the Rings for the Fifteenth Time; Part Two: The Two Towers

As the middle portion of the trilogy The Lord of the Rings, The Two Towers has both strengths and weaknesses. I will touch on the weaknesses first, and before I do I want to emphasize that these stood out to me more with this reading than with previous ones; it is possible that I have reached the stage where enough is enough concerning certain passages of the book. I found this time that in each major section of the book, both the fortunes of the remaining members of the fellowship in the west and the journey of Frodo and Sam to Mordor, there were portions in which as I read I felt impatient, that the descriptions seemed overly detailed and I wished that Tolkien would get on with it. In book three, this was the part where Merry and Pippin are abducted by the Uruk-Hai orcs and carried away toward Isengard. In book four, it is where Frodo and Sam tame Smeagol and follow him through the hills and marshes to the Black Gate. It is not that I do not find these parts fascinating, but rather that I felt that in spots they are too long. I will repeat, though: I do not remember feeling this way during the first fourteen readings, so perhaps the fault is with me and not with Tolkien.

As for strengths in The Two Towers, there are many. I think that in this book one of the most important things that Tolkien does is highlight the nobility of some of the main characters. Aragorn is steadfast in the realization of his calling as an heir to the kingship; he carries the re-forged sword of Elendil with him as a symbol of his destiny. Gimli the dwarf is always strong, stalwart, tireless, courageous, and feisty. Legolas uses his elven talents to full advantage and never wavers from his new-found friendship with Gimli. Gandalf the Grey becomes Gandalf the White, affirming that he is Saruman as he should have been. Once Theoden the king of Rohan is freed from the oppression of Wormtongue his courage and sense of honor is unimpeachable, to the extent that he suggests riding out against the army of orcs at Helm’s Deep rather than cowering behind walls and gates. When Faramir the brother of Boromir encounters Frodo and Sam in Ithilien, he declares that he would not touch the ring or take it to Minas Tirith, and he aids Frodo regardless of the cost to himself. Frodo heavily feels the sense of destiny that has compelled him to carry the ring to Mordor and despite his terror is determined to finish the task. Sam stays always by Frodo’s side; the thought of desertion never enters his mind. The portrayal of these noble characters in The Two Towers brings great depth to this epic fantasy and helps to set up the amazing and satisfying denouement in the final book of the trilogy.

It is a bit confusing at times that Tolkien does not plot his tale chronologically. Instead, he chooses to follow one storyline at length and then break off from that to follow another; this, however, is within the prerogative of the writer, and he leaves hints throughout the narrative to indicate the position of the other characters within it.

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On Reading The Lord of the Rings for the Fifteenth Time, Part One: The Fellowship of the Ring

The last time I read (and commented on) The Lord of the Rings was in 2011, and you can read those reviews of The Fellowship of the Rings, The Two Towers, and The Return of the King in my blog’s archives. I returned to it after so long because I felt in need of some literary comfort food. My past experiences of reading The Lord of the Rings were always overwhelmingly positive, and so it has been this time as well. I reiterate what I have said in the past: that despite the excellence of the films by Peter Jackson, which I have watched many times, this is an example of the books being far superior to the films. In my previous essays about the trilogy, I went into detail comparing the books to the films; however, this time around I would prefer to avoid that as much as possible and instead focus on the excellence of the reading experience on its own.

As I began to read, I was all but overwhelmed by a profound sense of wonder. As I did when I discovered the trilogy as a teen, I became deeply absorbed in the story and in the intricate, superbly imagined world of Middle Earth. The stakes are high and the heroes, even those that seem small and weak and seemingly helpless, must find their courage and do what they can to save the world from the dark, evil forces of Sauron. To do so, they must forsake their familiar and comfortable homes and venture forth into the unknown. When I was young, this story helped to call me out onto the open road for the first time, and even now, as I read about Bilbo Baggins leaving Bag End and exclaiming, “What fun! What fun to be off again, off on the road…” a great longing rose within me, a longing to dump all the things I’ve accumulated and take off again for destinations unknown. What good, thought I, is merely staying alive through government healthcare and other assistance – if one is not free?

That’s the feeling I was hoping for when I picked up the book. I realize that I can’t, as in times long past, simply walk out the door and leave everything behind, but even contemplating the possibility and experiencing that great rush of freedom and self-determination was a deep cleansing blast to my mind and heart.

Tolkien’s characters, most of them at least, despite their limitations and weaknesses, are single-minded, courageous, honorable, and resolute, even in the face of overwhelming odds. In the midst of a rising tide of dark shadows and evil, they seek to preserve the light of love and true righteousness, and even when sore beset by enemy forces, they do not flee and abandon their companions.

The films necessarily have to edit the tedium of the long journeys from place to place during the ring bearer’s quest, but through Tolkien’s descriptions we can sense the arduous nature of the peregrinations of the members of the fellowship, and also we can better appreciate all of the wonderful details with which Tolkien has filled his fantasy world. All in all, rereading The Fellowship of the Rings has been a terrific experience. No matter how many times I read these books, they always satisfy.

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Book Review: The Half Known Life: In Search of Paradise by Pico Iyer

This book is well-written and takes us to fascinating places, but it is suffused with irony. Iyer tours locations that for one reason or another have been considered forms of paradise, but most of them are fraught with violence, and some are among the most dangerous locales in the world. He writes: “A true paradise has meaning only after one has outgrown all notions of perfection and taken the measure of the fallen world.” Additionally, though he writes of a search for paradise, he makes it clear that he is approaching the subject from a secular viewpoint. He is not a religious person, and though his prose is beautifully wrought, he maintains a distance, a sort of remoteness from his material, as if he is reporting on situations that do not touch him personally. This is not necessarily a drawback, but it is clear that another writer, one who is searching for meaning and fulfillment, might approach the task with much more empathy and emotion. Iyer also indulges in privileged traveling, which I find hard to relate to – that is, a method of traveling that only the wealthy can afford: flying in a carefree manner from one spot to another halfway around the world, staying in luxury hotels, and hiring cars, drivers, and guides. Although I have traveled extensively too, I have always had to stick to budget transport and find my own way around as best I can.

The tour of holy places begins in Iran, where Iyer visits mosques and palaces and other historic and contemporary sites. Iran’s claim to fame as a repository of paradise, according to Iyer, is its spiritual poetry from many centuries ago. As he travels around modern-day Iran, it is clear that foreigners are restricted to certain areas, he has clearly defined boundaries, and he is not altogether safe. From Iran, Iyer takes us to, of all places, Pyongyang, North Korea. He justifies this stop because to the North Korean leadership the country is a “people’s paradise” – but his stay there is fraught with paranoia and tension. Paradise? No thanks.

Onward to Belfast, Ireland: another zone of incessant conflict. He alludes to a “History of Terror” tour, which takes participants “to the site of Bloody Friday – almost two dozen bombs exploding in barely an hour – and the homes of terrorists.” He later writes of the musician Van Morrison, a native of Belfast, who transformed a squalid world through his music. “He’d made of the unpromising landscape a world as magically illuminated as Avalon.” Next, he takes us to another global hotspot: Kashmir. He writes of the British attempting to create a sort of paradise by building houseboats on the lake; however, since partition this natural paradise has been the site of almost constant conflict – surrounded by opposing forces and barbed wire.

When Iyer moves on to a remote corner of the Australian outback, a coastal town called Broome, it seems like a pleasant interlude – until we read of tumultuous weather and the ongoing ill-treatment of the aboriginal population. From the Australian wastelands he cuts to Jerusalem, the site of many competing faiths and sects and of continual discord and violence. In all of these situations, he observes and reports but has no answers – he does not even attempt any. He merely describes – with eloquence – what he sees. Then there is Ladakh, a place of ongoing conflict between India, Pakistan, and China, and then Sri Lanka, where the decades-long battle is between Tamils and Singhalese. Both Ladakh and Sri Lanka are natural paradises that humankind has ripped apart with violence.

The final two places Iyer visits are not war zones, however. One is holy Mount Koyasan near Osaka, the site of numerous temples, and the other is Varanasi on the Ganges River in India. Of Koyasan he writes that “joy, for a monk, is never the same as pleasure, because it has nothing to do with changing circumstance.” This seems to be one of the themes of his book: that paradise continues to exist despite human conflicts around it.

At first I found Iyer’s choices of destinations to be jarring in a book that is supposed to be about his pilgrimage from one paradisiacal location to another. However, in reality, in our present era the entire world is full of conflict, and we have to look beyond the discord and mayhem for natural beauties and spiritual truths. This book, poetically written, brings home that point. Recommended.

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Handling Rejection

I have written about rejection in the past but I need to do so again. If I composed an essay every time one of my stories got rejected, I would have time to write nothing else. But this one stung. Several months ago I learned about an anthology whose theme was close to my heart. The guidelines stipulated that writers should first write a synopsis of their idea and send it to the editor for approval; I did that and the editor gave me the go-ahead to proceed. It took me about a week to write and proofread the story. After I sent it in, I waited far too anxiously during the many weeks that followed. The correct procedure is to write a story, send it out, and then forget about it and move on to the next one. I did move on to compose more stories, essays, and memoirs, but in errant moments I also fell into the cheap thrill of daydreaming and imagining that once the story got accepted it would obtain approval of readership and draw attention to my other works. A formula for disaster, I know, but I couldn’t help it. I badly needed a win. So when this particular rejection came, I felt as if I had been punched in the face – you know: that devastating punch that knocks you off your feet and onto the floor of the ring. It physically hurt, somewhere deep inside behind my solar plexus. I even let out a couple of involuntary sobs and came close to tears. Unable to cope with my grief, I got up from the chair where I’d been sitting in front of the computer and began to pace. I went outside on the balcony, watched dark clouds scud across the sky, and felt the cold, bracing wind. For a few minutes I despaired and wondered if it would make any difference to me or to anyone else if I never wrote another word.

The physical pain and despair didn’t last long. As I said, I have been rejected many times before. I began making a quick count of them from the story logs I have kept since the mid-1990s, but I gave up; I simply don’t have the time. As a rough estimation without any exaggeration, there are thousands. And I don’t say this to deter you from becoming a writer, if that’s what you feel compelled to be. Writing as a creative art form is vastly different from the business of somehow getting your completed works in the hands of readers. For me writing, at least most of the time, is pure pleasure. It’s the other part that’s difficult, whether you choose the traditional route of going through publishers or you self-publish or, like me, you choose a hybrid path and utilize both.

However you manage your career, the image of the boxer comes up again and again. The only way to win is to take the punches, to get up again when you are knocked down, and to keep fighting as long as there is breath in your body. Come to think of it, that’s how it is with many things that we strive to accomplish in life. A lucky few achieve success through nepotism, but most of us have to struggle to fulfill our dreams. The point? Don’t quit. If you get knocked down, get back up again. If your story gets rejected, don’t despair. Weep if you must, but then send it out to the next magazine or anthology on your list.

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I feel compelled to add a postscript to this to illustrate the often strange machinations of the publishing world. Shortly after I wrote the above, I sent off a fairly new story to a well-paying anthology and then went off to have some dinner. By the time I returned a couple of hours later, the editor had already written back that he liked the story and was accepting it. Wow! You never know.

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Book Review:  Thunder Song: Essays by Sasha LaPointe

Not long ago I read Red Paint: The Ancestral Autobiography of a Coast Salish Punk By Sasha LaPointe. This essay collection is a continuation of the thoughts and emotions expressed in that volume, albeit arranged thematically instead of chronologically. It is just as powerful, or possibly even more so, as LaPointe’s talents as an artist continue to evolve and improve.

I learned of Thunder Songs as I was conducting a search for author events in the area that I might be able to attend. I discovered that Sasha LaPointe would soon be appearing with Maori poet Tayi Tibble at a local bookstore to promote their newly published books. It turned out that at the event Thunder Song wasn’t discussed much; the women mainly read some poems and spoke of how they met and discovered that the Coast Salish and Maori cultures had a lot in common, which was in itself fascinating.

In Thunder Song, LaPointe’s voice as a writer has become even stronger and more assured. She writes about her lighter skin tone and how it delayed her from understanding the way that white people recoil from indigenous people, about the dangers of going missing that native women face, and about a miscarriage that almost killed her due to a doctor that couldn’t be bothered to take the time for a proper medical diagnosis. However, as in Red Paint, she not only writes of the traumas but also the factors that contributed to her healing. When she was young, becoming involved in the punk music scene helped to liberate her spirit. Writing, of course, was a powerful purifying process. She also obtained assistance along the way through sincere relationships with loved ones. She returns again and again to the storytelling ability of her great grandmother. For instance, when her great grandmother learned that she had a passion for the Little Mermaid, she told Sasha the story of the Maiden of Deception Pass, who became involved with a sea spirit and left the land for the ocean, which brought about prosperity for her people.

In my favorite essay in the book, LaPointe writes of the struggles she faced as a vegan in the midst of her indigenous fish and meat-eating culture. She persevered for a long time, but the craving for salmon in particular, which as a ceremonial food is deeply enmeshed in her people’s past, became too much for her. When she compromised and ate some salmon after a long period of abstinence, she felt no guilt but instead a sense of release and freedom. She writes: “I guess I’m the kind of Indian who will never be vegan, who will never again teach herself to be hungry or quiet.” And: “I am the kind of Indian who will never hide who she is again and who will always eat the salmon.”

Another touching essay concerns the healing process she went through with her mother as they walked together along pathways in the evergreen forest. Her mother points out the licorice fern plant, which aids in respiratory conditions and once, it is said, helped a mute woman speak. LaPointe says that the licorice fern will aid them both and give “strength to finally use our voices.”

I was brought up in the Pacific Northwest, as LaPointe was. For many years our family had a beach cabin on the shore of Hood Canal in Puget Sound, and as LaPointe tells of her childhood amidst the evergreens and along the beaches, I recall my own youth in those magical places. My family’s attachment was surface-level at best, though, while hers goes many generations deep. It is good to see these things in their proper perspectives, and LaPointe effectively communicates the power and strength and resilience and value of the indigenous cultures that were here long before white colonists arrived.

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How Are the Mighty Fallen: Adventures on Airlines

I am not sure when I flew on an airplane for the first time, but it might have been when I went from Seattle, where I was born and raised, to San Francisco, California, to check out the University of Santa Clara as a possible site for my ongoing educational endeavors. Since then, I have taken many flights, long and short, on a variety of airlines. During my interminable wait for the initiation of my most recent journey I tried to remember them: Delta, United, Alaskan Airlines, Pan Am, Jet Blue, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airlines, Icelandic Airlines, Turkish Airlines, Indian Airlines, Aegean Airlines, Olympic Airlines… There must have been others. The longest direct flight I ever took was from San Francisco to Hong Kong; that one lasted seventeen hours. The shortest? I’m not sure. It might have been from Athens to Thessaloniki in Greece; there was hardly time for the plane to gain altitude before it started to descend. Or maybe it was the stretch from Jakarta, Indonesia, to Singapore. Regardless of which airlines I have flown on, though, or the distance of the journey, I have almost always, out of necessity, flown economy class.

And so we come to my latest aviation adventure: flying from Seattle to San Francisco aboard Delta Airlines so I could attend the book launch of the first novel written by one of my sons. I have always enjoyed flying on Delta in the past; indeed, I considered it one of my preferred airlines. I think that the trends I observed on this flight are ubiquitous across all airline companies. They are all struggling. They are all trying to save money. Their penuriousness, though, has become an obsession to the point where they ignore or denigrate the people that it’s all for: the passengers.

As I mentioned, I have almost always flown economy class, in contrast to first class, but this difference has invariably been relegated in my mind to the realm of who gives a damn anyway? There was a time that even in economy class a person could enjoy a modicum of comfort. Those times are long gone. I’m not just talking about leg room here; I’m talking about degradation and humiliation. On this flight there was not just first class and economy, no; there were six levels of seating. First class was primary, of course, and then came comfort plus, followed by three more levels whose names I forget, and finally, beneath the rest and last to board, was my level: economy basic. The “basic” is the verbal equivalent of a sneer, as if it carries a stigma, as in “don’t ask; you’re entitled to nothing.”

People in economy class have no rights – not even the right, as I have always had in times past, of seat selection. As soon as I got my reservation, I went to the Delta website so I could choose a seat, only to be informed that I couldn’t get a seat assignment until I checked in – because of my class. If I wanted to grab a specific seat before then, I had to pay a fee of thirty-five dollars. I cannot remember this happening before on Delta or any other airlines. I dutifully waited until twenty-four hours before the flight to check in online, and then went for my seat, only to be met with the same prospect of a thirty-five dollar fee and a notice that I had to be assigned my seat at the gate. Okay, then, damn it. I really wanted an aisle seat so the sardine-like stuffed-in feeling would be somewhat mitigated, so I got to the gate over two hours early; there I was told that economy basic passengers could only obtain seat numbers one hour before the flight. None of this is communicated in advance; I had to pass through numerous trick doorways to find it out.

They’d also way overbooked the flight, by the way, to the extent that they had to offer passengers gift cards if they would agree to take a later flight. They started by announcing four hundred dollar offers and raised these all the way to one thousand dollars before enough people volunteered to defer their trips until later. To top it off, the flight was delayed for over an hour due to ongoing construction in San Francisco. It made me wonder: if they knew about the construction, why could they not better plan for it?

And then there was the carry-on situation. At first, the gate attendant announced that overhead bin space was limited and requested passengers to voluntarily check their carry-on bags at no extra charge. However, when I boarded – as an economy basic passenger one of the last, of course – as I passed the attendant she snatched my bag out of my hands and said, “We’re checking this,” and before I could protest and explain that it could easily fit under the seat in front, she’d slapped a tag on it and set it aside. I had no option but to comply, even though it had things in it I’d intended to use during the flight – my Kindle Fire, for instance – but then, they were charging extra for the wifi too, so I probably wouldn’t have utilized it.

I had an aisle seat in the very back row of the plane, which didn’t bother me much because it gave me an opportunity to chat with the stewardess. I found out she was scheduled on four flights that day: Portland to Seattle, Seattle to San Francisco, San Francisco to Seattle, and Seattle to Portland. A brutal schedule, to be sure! And she had a similar schedule the next day. She seemed chipper enough, though, in spite of it. Ah, to be young again!

No meals were served on the flight, not even to those in first class. Instead, the stewardess moved down the aisle dispensing coffee, tea, soft drinks, potato chips, almonds, and similar items from a snack cart. You could request alcoholic beverages – for a steep fee. I remember a time when, even on these relatively short flights, complementary hot meals were served to all classes of passenger. Beer and wine were free on most flights too. On one of my longer trips, from Auckland, New Zealand, to Los Angeles – in economy class, mind you – I called the stewardess to request a wine refill a few times, and fed up, she finally brought a half-full bottle to me and said, “Here, just keep this.” Those were the days!

Finally, let’s close on a positive note, with an airline improvement. Yes, a few things at least have got better over the years. When I went to the bathroom, I noticed an ashtray, although there was also a no smoking sign. It caused me to remember the days when smoking was allowed on flights, and aircraft had smoking and non-smoking sections. That’s a thing of the past I definitely don’t miss. Can you imagine how dense the air was and how much it stank in the sealed-in container of the airplane? But that’s how it was back then. You could smoke almost anywhere: restaurants, offices, planes, trains, and so on. Just about anywhere except, of course, in church.

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An Earth Day Eulogy

I couldn’t be more pleased and proud to announce the book launch of my son Nestor’s first novel, An Earth Day Eulogy. It will be held on April 19th at 2:00 p.m. at Stanford Bookstore, 519 Lasuen Mall, Stanford, California. If you live in the Bay Area, please stop by. I am coming down from Seattle for the event so I hope to see you there. Here’s a summary:

Jacob Wilder has nothing against Earth Day — he just has ‘real responsibilities’ and can’t be bothered by it. But on Earth Day Eve, the ghost of Wilder’s old platoon buddy, Eddie, announces that three spirits will visit — those of Earth’s past, present, and future — and he warns that one of two things will have to die: Earth, or our old way of life.

As Nestor’s website explains, he was born in Bangladesh, raised in Greece, and served ten years in the U.S. Navy. He has now almost completed his Master’s Degree at Stanford’s Institute of Computational and Mathematical Engineering. Interestingly, a few years ago he was accepted at the Clarion West writer’s workshop; however, the summer his class was scheduled the workshop was cancelled due to the COVID breakout. Since I attended Clarion West in 1973, to my knowledge, if he would have gone it would have been the first time that both a parent and a child attended Clarion West.

If you can’t make the book launch, you can order a physical or digital copy of the book on the website for An Earth Day Eulogy.

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Himalayan Trek: Part Two

I walked all day. The air was clear; the temperature was warm but not hot. I ascended the hills, one after another, and crossed more bridges over streams. Most of the time I was alone. Once a Nepali laborer with a huge load of firewood on his back passed me going in the other direction; he scarcely acknowledged my presence but simply continued on his way, almost running despite his heavy burden. Sometimes I heard woodcutters working in the distance, but I never spotted them.

The most traumatic and dangerous experience involved a water buffalo blocking the path. I had come up a steep flight of stairs and there it was, standing in a narrow gap between cliff-like ledges. Its enormous girth left only a couple of feet on either side of the sheer wall. It had massive horns, and it kept snorting out of its mucus-covered nostrils. The only way onward was past that thing. What was I to do? It gave no indication that it planned to move in the near future. For me, to return to Pokhara in ignominious defeat was out of the question. Instead, I stepped forward and slowly inched past on the left side of the beast. If it shifted its weight only slightly it could have crushed me, but it simply stood there motionless, snorting occasionally, until I was safely past.

Another issue that came up was drinking water. I had no idea whether the water in the streams I passed was clean or not; for all I knew, they might pass through villages that cast their waste into them. However, I had no choice but to drink from them. The water tasted clean, at least.

Onward and upward I walked, seldom stopping to rest. I found a comfortable pace and kept at it, hour after hour, mile after mile. The ubiquitous silence, broken by intermittent birdsong, was soothing, comforting, and profound. As I ascended I felt cleansed. I was leaving the confusion of the communities of humankind for the abode of prophets, of sadhus, and of other holy persons. I gave no thought to the descent; I focused on going higher and yet higher, on finding out what I would discover at the top of the next slope, and the next, and the next.

Finally, though, as is always inevitable even on the most propitious of days, the sun neared the horizon and nightfall loomed. At the perfect serendipitous moment I came across an inn or hostel in that faraway place. I could sleep in a dormitory room in back and have a meal of all the rice and yellow dahl I could eat for a ridiculously low price. I decided to take advantage of this opportunity to rest up so I could continue onward the following day. I ate at least three heaping plates of food, went to bed, fell into a profound sleep, woke at dawn, and drank a few cups of tea thick with milk and flavored with cardamom, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and sugar.

Fueled and refreshed, I continued hiking up the path, which by this time had got quite narrow. The landscape was more forested here, and more frequently I heard woodcutters in the groves of trees, but I never spotted them. Onward and upward I went for a few more hours until I came to a point where I could see the snowline not too far in the distance. At that I hesitated. If I kept walking, I was not so confident that I would find any more hostels – or, in fact, habitations of any kind. I had no equipment for camping. What was I doing? Where the hell did I think I was going?

Just a hundred yards or so to the left of the trail was an isolated and steep grass-covered hillock. I decided to climb to the top and ponder my situation and the options open to me. I sat cross-legged staring at the snow-capped peaks and realized that if I went too far in that direction I might truly be risking my life. Was I prepared to take that step? It occurred to me that all of my travels had led to that solitary spot in the Himalayan Mountains. I had been searching for clarity and quiet. I wanted to still the chaotic voices of humankind that always seemed to be pounding in my head by finding a place of peace and serenity. And I had found it. I’d never find a quieter spot than that. It came to me as a revelation, though, that I was faced with two choices: I could continue to climb higher into the mountains and possibly die, or I could return the way I had come and learn to somehow retain my inner peace even though surrounded by the confusion of human communities. I had never been a gregarious person; I had always, at heart, been a loner. I realized, though, that I had no death wish. I had to go back. And hopefully, now that I had found a place of contentment and clarity, I could carry it back with me in my heart.

The decision made, I started back down the mountain. I managed to hike the entire distance back to Pokhara in a single day – going down, of course, is easier and faster than going up. I stopped only once – at a small village to purchase a packet of sweet biscuits and a cup of tea. When I reached Pokhara I found another all-you-can-eat rice and dahl restaurant and feasted. By the lakeside, the German Shiva-worshipping hippies had left. It didn’t matter to me. By that time I was exhausted enough to fall into a deep, satisfying sleep.

My troubles weren’t over, of course; I was still near-broke. I hitched a ride on a bus to the Indian border, took a train to Delhi, found a spot on the floor in the cheapest traveler’s hostel I could find, and almost starved before enough funds arrived from the west so that I could make it back to Europe. Ah, what glorious adventures we can enjoy if we are crazy enough to attempt them!

If you want to hear more about my travels in the United States, Central America, Europe, the Middle East, and the Indian Subcontinent, check out my memoir World Without Pain: The Story of a Search.

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Himalayan Trek: Part One

As I was nearing completion of a rereading of Edward Abbey’s Desert Solitaire, I was struck by his penchant to explore unfamiliar territory in the southwestern desert with a minimum of guidance and gear. He describes, for instance, venturing into a region of canyonlands called The Maze, navigating the Colorado River in a rubber raft, and climbing alone up a peak called Tukuhnikivats. Why did I feel such a thrill of solidarity as I read of these adventures? Because I had also attempted such foolhardy things in my days as a wandering vagabond back in the 1970s. The example came strongly to me of my solitary trek into the Himalayas.

It was during my first trip to the Indian Subcontinent. I had hitchhiked across the Middle East as far as Kandahar, Afghanistan, and then taken public transportation to Kabul, over the Khyber Pass to Peshawar, Pakistan, and from there to Karachi, Bombay, Goa, Sri Lanka, and back to Madras on the Indian mainland. I was running out of money and figured that the safest decision would be to head back to Europe as soon as I reached Delhi. But then I would miss Nepal! So instead, when I got to Delhi I traveled overland by train to the India-Nepal border and by bus to Kathmandu. After several days in Kathmandu, I moved on to Pokhara, one hundred twenty miles to the west.

I arrived in Pokhara with my finances severely depleted. Rather than spend a few coins for a bed in a traveler’s hostel, I walked along the shore of the lake beside the city, looking for a place I could lay my sleeping bag. There I came across a pair of German hippies who were into Shiva worship. They had set up a statue of Shiva and sat cross-legged before it as they passed a chillum of strong hashish back and forth. They were magnanimous enough not to insist that I acknowledge Shiva as I shared their smoke. After I was sufficiently high, I unrolled my sleeping bag near their camp and crawled in. It was so cold, though, at that high altitude in the open air, that I felt compelled to smoke a joint they’d given me in the middle of the night.

The next morning I left the duffle bag with all my possessions near the Germans and went to explore the town. I saw the usual Nepali metropolitan sights: people herding their water buffaloes through the streets, bathing at public fountains, and so on. I walked all the way to the edge of the city, until nothing but a small stretch of open plateau was between me and the foothills that ascended towards the magnificent snow-capped peaks. An urge suddenly struck me to go walking into those mountains. Until that moment I had not planned to go trekking, but now it abruptly hit me with a feeling of overwhelming insistency. I could do it. I had to do it!

I retraced my steps back to the lakeshore, retrieved my duffle bag, slung it over my shoulder, returned to that same spot at the city’s edge, and walked along a dirt road that led straight to a gap in the hills. From there a narrow footpath took me to a bridge across a stream and then a series of switchbacks led upward.

(To be continued)

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