This book reminded me of Bill Bryson’s classic A Walk in the Woods in more ways than one. There is the title, of course, which is meant to be ironic, as Bryson’s was. The expression “a walk in the park” signifies something that is easy to accomplish, and that’s what Fedarko’s friend Pete McBride, who initially proposed this expedition, suggested that a hike through the entire length of the Grand Canyon would be. In truth, though, only a handful of people have ever managed this arduous trek, and Fedarko and McBride came near to expiring in the wilderness on the first leg of their journey.
For the first hundred pages or so I had a bit of trouble becoming absorbed in the story because I didn’t realize that Fedarko was deliberately adopting a tone of exaggeration for comedic effect – similar to what Bryson does in A Walk in the Woods. Fedarko even admits in a footnote: “I just like the story better when it’s told this way.” But in both narratives, what the teams of hikers attempt is no laughing matter. Bryson and his buddy set out to walk the Appalachian Trail from Georgia to Maine, while Fedarko and friend aim to hike from Lee’s Ferry, at the eastern end of Grand Canyon National Park, and finish at the Grand Wash Cliffs, at the far western end. This is a trek of over seven hundred fifty miles through all but impenetrable wilderness; it took over a year for Fedarko and McBride to accomplish it, not in one continuous push but in several disjointed sections.
Bryson and his companion skip over large parts of the Appalachian Trail, but Fedarko and McBride, in contrast, eventually manage the entire journey, with the exception of Fedarko deliberately skipping a few hundred yards. He did this, he says, as “a gesture of respect,” akin to a deliberate flaw, a loose thread known as a spirit line, that Navahos weave into their rugs. He writes that “the gap reaffirms my belief that there can be coherence and even beauty in stories, like this one, whose endings fail to tie off perfectly.” He also says that it would be “a kind of delusion” to have his name on the official list of through-hikers, considering what a mess he and McBride made of the hike for much of its distance. On the first leg they almost died. A group of more experienced canyon hikers mentored them and accompanied them for the next leg. Once on their own again, they came close to perishing a second time, and they eventually needed an experienced guide to reach the end. Their adventures make for absorbing reading, and along the way, Fedarko also tells of the history of the canyon, the boatmen on the Colorado River, the early pioneering hikers, and the Native Americans who dwelled in the canyon long before it was “discovered” by Europeans.
All in all, it’s a grand, well-told adventure that gets more and more absorbing as it goes along. Reading about Fedarko and McBride’s misadventures also caused me to recall times on my road journeys that I contemplated embarking on wild adventures from which common sense mercifully spared me. When I was crossing the Middle East on the Hippie Trail for the first time, for instance, in the mid-1970s, I heard that there was a path that went all the way through the remote Hindu Kush Mountains in Afghanistan, and I contemplated walking that trail; considering the prevalent attitude towards foreigners in the area, it would have been sure suicide. On that same trip, another traveler and I decided to find a boat in Multan, Pakistan, and float down the Indus River to Karachi – another sure recipe for disaster that never came to fruition. In Nepal I did eventually walk into the Himalayan Mountains without map or guide – but only for a few days. Still, adventure is adventure. Life is too short for all of us to go everywhere, and that’s why books like this are so valuable. We can vicariously travel through any landscape on the globe through the accounts of authors who have made the journeys before us. A Walk in the Park gives us this thrill. Recommended.




































